The authentic Mexican dining experience has arrived to Helsinki.

FROM the sky, to the surrounding buildings, and on the faces of people passing by, the streets of the downtown Helsinki area this time of the year draw from a universally grey palate. Amidst this dour landscape one can’t help but want to press fast-forward a couple of months for the green rebirth of spring to reappear once again.

Stepping off the glum sidewalk of Lönnrotinkatu on a Monday afternoon, all of this is quickly forgotten the moment I open the door and enter Café de Nopal. The spirited music, conversation and vivid colours greet me immediately – followed swiftly by a friendly “Hola!” from co-owner Erika Torchio standing behind the counter.

Having opened less than two months ago Café de Nopal is the lone authentic Mexican restaurant located in Helsinki. With twenty seats tucked into its cosy space, the restaurant takes its name from the omnipresent nopal (cactus), which is utilised in a multitude of different ways in Mexico including eating and drinking, as well as creating aftershaves and shampoos. The brightly coloured walls are decorated with an assortment of arts and crafts, paintings and handiwork reflecting the owners’ desire to share different aspects of Mexican culture with their customers.

With Torchio busy serving customers, I find myself a table and soon I am chatting with her brother Manu and his girlfriend Karina Paakki, who, together with Erika, make up the trio of owners.

What’s it all about, then?

“You have to eat like a Mexican this time!”

“We try to offer everything, from the streets to the houses,” explains Karina. “Not only fine dining, not only tacos – we try to offer as much as possible.” I take a glance behind the counter, and a small chalkboard outlines the choice of what is on offer today for lunch: enchiladas, stuffed peppers, with a third option of tacos having already sold out.

“Because the place is so small, we cannot have a menu,” continues Manu, stopping briefly to bid some customers farewell in Spanish. “People come here guessing what they can eat. We have the choice of three plates per day for lunch. In the evening we add one more dish and some small starters.”

For many people, however, to try and guess what might be on offer each day would be to draw upon their knowledge of TexMex cuisine already found around the city. But, Manu insists, this is far from an authentic Mexican experience.

“I don’t like that people confuse it with real Mexican,” he explains. “The real Mexican food is not spicy at all – only the salsas are very spicy. It plays with many flavours, many ingredients. That’s what we want to show to the people. We don’t want to take people away from TexMex, we just want to introduce people to Mexican food.”

As a raucous conversation erupts into laughter behind us Manu and Karina depart for the kitchen, leaving me to enjoy a plate of nachos and both red and green salsa that Erika has brought to the table. Served complimentary with every dish ordered, the flavours are spicy, tangy and delicious. This is soon followed by the traditional street foods of sope and quesadilla (€…, available in the late afternoon), along with a creamy mushroom soup (served complimentary with lunch, different selection everyday).

After some time enjoying the different flavours, I sit back on my chair and contently listen to the music, taking note of the male customer sitting in front of me gently rocking along to the beat. I look down to see I’m tapping my foot involuntarily.

I am just about ready to thank my hosts for their time, when an enormous serving of enchiladas (€9.80) appears in front of me. WOW. Four homemade tortillas filled with chicken, lettuce, avocado and green tomato. It is outstanding. The chicken is tender and the sauce creamy, with a hint of spice lurking in the background, quickly betraying why the ten different enchiladas available on different days here are the customers’ favourite.

Now, more than a little content, when my three hosts reappear and join me at the table, I’m relieved to hear that it is currently siesta time – a one hour break that the kitchen takes each day usually between 15:00-16:00. Noticing my empty plate, Manu smiles and asks, “So, you have room for dessert and Mexican coffee?”

Keeping it green

Have you been wondering just how to get the right balance of ingredients for your guacamole? “Maybe the secret to guacamole is not to open a jar!” Manu laughs. “Make it yourself. First you have to find the perfect avocado. Then add the three basic ingredients that we use for all the foods in Mexico: coriander, onion and tomato. Then some salt and pepper, and, to slow the process of the avocado turning black, you squeeze lime juice so that it remains green.” And, contrary to what you might find at your favourite TexMex haunt, “No sour cream!”

Café de Nopal
Lönnrotinkatu 9, Helsinki
Mon-Fri 11:30-19:00
Tel. 040 355 9033

James O’Sullivan